Into Mauritania, prepping for the Sahara desert

From Mirleft in Southern Morocco, Dusty Springs and the Terranauts set out on the long 2 day drive down through Western Sahara. Breathtaking scenery surrounded by undulating desert rock and the Atlantic ocean on our right side, over 450 km on a long flat straight road to the ends of the earth – at least thats what it feels like.

Toward Laayoune – the largest town as we move South and a small UN presence keeping the peace in the Western Sahara territory. They have had a lot of rain here which is extremely rare – and we came across a flooded desert road where 50 trucks and many more cars were waiting to cross 2 foot of water. After this delay we arrived by sundown at Camping des Bedouins, a remote desert campsite run by a Belgian couple who escaped from Rwanda just as the knives were drawn in the civil war. Camel stew and beers, and bed.

Next day was another epic drive to Dakhla, around 450k – it really gets remote on this stretch of road with little or no traffic apart from other rally cars. We drive all day through moonscapes as the red clay desert turns to fine beige Saharan sand. We started to feel quite small as the road stretched on ahead mile after mile, hour after hour. Every now and again we meet a police checkpoint, grin at the officer, say bonjour in our best French and hand over our affiches. Usually they are friendly – curious about the journey and ask about the YouthAIDS posters on the car. It has become a point of conversation and the tags are a big hit! We feared some people might be put off by the association with AIDS but have been surprised at how many officials praise the effort.

Dakhla by nightfall and our rest stop for 2 nights. Time to meet the group and prepare for the desert crossing. We crashed in a fleabag hotel and got up early to fit a sumpguard over Dustys front underside. You can find someone to fix anything in this town. Car wash and new tire and on to the market for camping provisions… We have a meeting with the teams in the afternoon and divide off into groups of 6 or 7 cars for the desert crossing. Greatest surprise is seeing Benni, my guide for the rally last year. We both yelp with surprise while he gives me a bear hug almost wrapping me up in his jelaba, a heavy wool coatdress with a pointed hood worn by men. Benni is from Nouadibou in the north of Mauritania and was awaiting our arrival for several days with some other desert guides. Grinning he says he will take us through the desert again this year.
Dusty and ourselves are travelling with a multinational group of 16 – a few Brits, 2 Norwegians, 3 Swiss, 1 German, 2 Mexicans…and 2 Americans. Apparently I have an American accent. Urgh.
Writing now from Nouadibou after a long day crossing the Moroccan border and into Mauritania. We arrived at the frontier just as the guards left for lunch, literally. The whole border crossing took 6 hours and no toilets. Roaming off to a craggy hillock wasnt an option as the area is still heavily mined.

We just ate Chinese food – lots of Chinese here in town – but rather surreal. The tags are in hot demand and are now proudly worn by the money changers, the guides, the jewellery salesman and the young men and women at the campsite. AIDS is a big issue here.

Tomorrow into the desert – we will be off roading for the next three days through the dunes. Happy New Year – hope we make it out OK!!